Organic Gardening

1. Fertilizer Facts!
2. How to Improve Poor Soil Conditions?
3. Propagation / Nursery Seedlings and Cuttings
4. Growing Beds / Potting Soil Mix
5. How to Quickly Revive Weak Plants?
6. How to Get Best Berries and Fruits?
7. Why Mulch?
8. Benefits of Feeding Through the Leaves
9. What Are Supplements and What Do They Do?
10. Rose Care
11. How to Prevent Winter Damage?
12. Hanging Baskets and Containers
13. What is Humus?


  Organic fertilizers differ from chemicals, in that; they feed your plants while building the soil’s structure. Soils with lots of organic material, remain loose and airy, are better able to hold moisture and nutrients, foster growth of soil organisms, including earthworms, and promote healthier root development. Building a healthy soil is the key to successful organic gardening.
Another advantage of organic fertilizers is that they are made from plant and animal sources, or from rock powders. These materials need to be broken down by soil microbes in order for their nutrients to be released, and that takes time. Because organic fertilizer works slowly, it provides long-term nutrition and steady, rather than excessive growth.
On the other hand, chemical fertilizers work fast, which is a good thing, if that’s what you’re looking for. They can make a bad garden or lawn look good much quicker than most organics can. However, it’s my opinion that the nutrients are released too quickly, creating a great deal of top growth before the roots are able to catch up. This kind of growth often leads to weaker plants. Also, because they are so rich, synthetic chemicals can easily be over applied and “burn” roots or create toxic concentration of salts.
Chemical fertilizers will not improve the structure of the soil. In fact, because they are composed of high concentrations of mineral salts, they are capable of killing off many of the soil organisms that are responsible for decomposition, and soil formation. If only chemicals are added, the soil gradually loses its organic matter and micro biotic activity. As this material is used up, the soil structure breaks down, becoming lifeless, compact and less able to hold water and nutrients. The result is pretty clear – you’ll have to use more and more fertilizer.

Dry vs. Liquid Fertilizer


Organic fertilizers fall into two categories: dry and liquid.
Dry fertilizers, such as rock phosphate and blood meal, are solid food for your soil microorganisms. They feed on it slowly and provide valuable nutrients to your plants throughout the entire growing season.

In most cases, dry fertilizers are broadcast directly over the top of your garden and are then hoed or raked into the top four to six inches of soil prior to planting. You can also add small amounts to planting holes as you sow seeds or transplant plants.

Another way to use dry fertilizers is to mix them along side plants during the growing season. This method is called side-dressing and works best if you can mix the fertilizer into the top inch or two of the soil. Unlike dry synthetic fertilizers, most organic fertilizers will not harm the delicate roots of the plants.

Liquid fertilizers are less concentrated than dry, and are to organic gardening, — a light nutrient boost for maximum performance. Fish and kelp extract are two common kinds of liquid organic fertilizer.

The most common method of delivering liquid fertilizers to plants is through their roots – by watering or root drench. Foliar feeding, an alternate method, delivers nutrients through the foliage or leaves of plants.

The advantages of foliar feeding are numerous:

• Up to five hundred times more effective than soil drenching.
• Nutrients are taken up immediately by plants, so you see quick results.
• Supplies elements, such as iron, when they are not available in the soil.

Liquid fertilizers are often used to help plants during critical periods, such as blooming, after transplanting, during fruit set or during periods of drought or high temperatures. Some experts recommend applications every month or every two weeks during the growing season. The best times to apply foliar sprays is early morning and early evening when liquids will be absorbed quickly.
To correctly use any fertilizer, always make sure to apply as directed


The N, P, K’s of Fertilizing

The three main nutrients that have been identified as absolutely necessary for plants are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). These three are also known as macronutrients, and are the source of the three numbers commonly found on fertilizer labels.
Nitrogen N) is responsible for above-ground vegetative growth of plants, and for overall size and vigor. It is probably best known for its ability to “green up” lawns. That’s because nitrogen is a major component of chlorophyll, the green substance in plants responsible for photosynthesis. Nitrogen can be added to your soil through composted manure, blood meal, canola meal, and fish powder. Too much nitrogen and your plants will grow extremely fast, resulting in long, spindly, weak shoots with dark green leaves. Too little nitrogen and your plants will slow or even stop their growth, and have leaves turning yellow and dropping sooner than they should.
Phosphorus P) promotes healthy growth, strong roots, fruit and flower development, and greater resistance to disease. Rock phosphate, bone meal and some guanos are sources of phosphorous. A phosphorus deficiency is recognized by dull green leaves and purplish stems. Plants are generally unhealthy, sometimes yellowing. Lack of blooming with lush green foliage may also indicated a lack of phosphorus.

Potassium (K), also known as potash, is essential for the development of strong plants. It helps plants to resist diseases and protects them from the cold. Because potassium plays a supporting role, it can be hard to spot deficiencies. Generally, leaves will show blue, yellow or purple tints with brown blotches or discoloration within or at the edges. Plants will lack growth and have small fruit and sickly blooms. Sources of potassium include greensand, sul-po-mag (sulfate of potash magnesia, quick release) and many liquid fertilizers.

How to Improve Poor Soil Conditions?

Soil is the key to good growing. Good soils have high organic matter and good structure which allows healthy root development and retains nutrients and moisture for an ongoing supply to roots. Most soils lose their fertility due to excessive use of chemical fertilizers and herbicides. To revive your soil, do the following:
1.For every 50 sq ft (5’ x 10’) use 250 g each of Humik and All Purpose 4-3-9. Mix in the top 2” of soil after land preparation and then water lightly.
2.If the soil is very sandy or very clayey and doesn’t grow good vegetables and other plants, do the above and in addition apply 25 ml of Root Conditioner per litre of water twice a week before planting or seeding.



  • If the soil is sandy, it will start to form soft aggregates to hold moisture and nutrients.
  • If the soil is too hard or clayey, it will crumble the soil and make it porous for faster root development to encourage deeper roots which will over time create more organic matter.
  • Soils will get more microbial activity and you will notice earthworms and other beneficial insects and microbes will start to colonize your soil.

Propagation / Nursery (Seedlings and Cuttings)

  For seedling and cuttings, use the following products in conjunction:

Liquid Products


Use directions below for best rooting and early seedling maturity. Rates are mentioned per litre of water

  1. Use 2 ml of Buds n Bloom + 3 ml of Kelp Boost every time with water.
  2. Occasionally replace above with 20 ml of BioFish 1-2 times during seedling phase.

Granular Products

  Add the following when blending soil for seeds or cuttings.
Applications rates are based per gallon (4 litres) of soil volume. Use 25 g (2 tbsp) of Starter Food + Humik 5 g (1 tsp) mixed together. This is to be applied only once at the time of mixing soil.


  • Early root formation
  • Thick and deep roots
  • More branches and bushier plants
  • More fruit and bloom sites at plant maturity
  • Higher tolerance against pest and diseases
  • Strong flavour



  For annual or perennial beds (new or existing) or potting soil mix, use the following:

Granular Products

Add the following when preparing beds, rows or potting soil mix for all types of plants. Application rates are based per 10’ x 4’ area OR 40 sq ft or for every wheel barrow load of soil
1.  Use 600 g of Starter Food + 150 g of Humik. When making beds, first work the soil and afterwards broadcast the products uniformly before transplanting, hilling or seeding directly in rows. For potting soils mix, add the products to soil and blend well with a shovel.
2.  8-10 days after transplant, use any granular fertilizer like All Purpose 4-3-9 or Tomato & Vegetable Food 4-3-7 or Rose & Flower Food 4-3-5 based on plant selection and use above rates for square feet or 5-10 g around each plant and work it up in the top soil layer.

Liquid Products


Depending on plants, use a relevant liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks or as needed. Rates are mentioned per litre of water.

  1. Use General Purpose or Tomato & Vegetable or Rose and Flower, etc at 10-15 ml per litre of water
  2. For beds with poor to medium grade soils, drench the bed using 25 ml of Root Conditioner per litre at first watering after transplanting or seeding and heavily soak top 4-5 inches of soil. Don’t mix Root Conditioner with liquid fertlizer.

How to Quickly Revive weak plants

  For annual or perennial beds (new or existing) or potting soil mix, use the following:


If the plants don’t do well and there is no vigour in leaves or the colours aren’t bright, here’s how to fix it quickly:

  1. Work the soil lightly and drench the roots with a heavy solution of BioFish using 30 ml per litre of water and use the same solution as a spray on leaves using a fine mist sprayer.
  2. After 2-3 days, apply 5-6 ml of Kelp Boost per litre of water as a heavy drench and a spray using a fine mist.
  3. Use All Purpose 4-3-9 and Starter Food 1-3-15 half and half and apply 15-30 g depending on size of the plant. Mix in root zone and water in with BioFish’s solution as mentioned above.

The combination above will actually make the roots and leaves feel that they are growing under ideal conditions and plants will respond quickly.

Good gardening practices require using both liquid and granular products. Liquids are absorbed instantly and granular products continue to feed over the long run.
A good gardener always uses a combination of granular and liquid for best resuts

How to get the best Berries and Fruits!



1. Apply a 50 / 50 mix of All Purpose 4-3-9 and Starter Food 1-3-15 at the start of the season and repeat the application 2 more times at 30 days interval during the season by gently working it in the top 2 inches of soil.
2. Use Fruit and Berry specialized fruit fertilizer as often as possible using a rate of 10-15 ml per litre of water from early spring to early summer and then cut back on frequency. Also use the same solution to spray once every two weeks or so.


This will force the plants to build reserve which it will utilize during fruit formation stages and plants will produce a high quality fruit, rich in flavour, good in size and with extended shelf life. Plants will also continue to produce for longer period as a result of nutrient reserves.

Why mulch?

Mulching helps in several ways:

  • It helps in preserving soil moisture. With less irrigation, nutrients don’t wash out.
  • Weed infestation is minimized and in case some do grow it’s easier to pull them out as their roots don’t get anchored deeply.
  • Also when herbicide needs to be used, it does less harm to roots if used properly.
One of its most important benefits is that with good moisture present in soil at all times, microbes multiply rapidly and they break down raw organic matter into nutrients to enrich the soil.  

Benefits of Feeding Through the Leaves


Foliar application of liquids is a safe and effective method of providing nutrients to plants quickly and efficiently. Did you know foliar absorption can be up to 4 times higher than a soil application?
1. Dilute liquid concentrates at recommended rates in a tank sprayer or spray bottle or
2. Place liquid concentrates in a hose-end dial sprayer, set dial to recommended dose and spray.
SHAKE WELL before use to mix ingredients that may settle during storage.

What are supplements and what do they do?



Plant supplements are designed to work with plant nutrients to improve nutrient uptake, digest minerals and micro nutrients, promote rooting, accelerate vegetative growth and boost size and yield during flowering, fruiting stages. They are required by the plant in small quantities but they play an important role in the overall plant growth. Most important forms of supplements are vitamins, some naturally occurring hormones or growth regulators, certain special forms of sugars, proteins, enzymes, micro nutrients, organic acids, etc.


Good quality organic products are rich not just in nutrients but also in supplements. With a full balanced nutrition, the plants feel more fulfilled versus being fed with only chemical fertilizers. As a result, they produce and perform in a manner which is most optimal to produce quality results.

Rose Care


Roses are heavy feeders and it’s critical to fulfill their nutrient requirements to get maximum blooming.


Granular Fertilizers

In very early spring use a mix of Blood Meal, Bone Meal Plus and Starter Food. Mix the three products in equal proportion and apply 30-40 g / bush. For smaller plants, use 10-20 g depending on age. Work the soil at about 2” depth around the roots.After 3 weeks, start feeding with granular Flower Food using 10-15 g per plant every month and gently work it in the root zone.


Liquid Fertilizers


Rose and Flower Food is a perfect organic and balanced fertilizer. Try to feed your roses every 2-3 weeks using 15-20 ml of Rose and Flower per litre of water and in its solution add 2 ml per litre of Buds n Bloom. This will help keep the roses stay out of nutritional stress and they will bloom with full potential. Roses love foliar feeding (feeding through leaves). Once a month give them a solution of Kelp Boost and Buds n Bloom using 3 ml of each per litre for continuous blooms till late fall.


It’s critical to prune roses not just in winters, but also during the season. Prevent the bush from over stretching and prune from all sides to keep the plant bushy and dense. Spring and summer pruning creates new branches with bud sites on them.

How To Prevent Winter Damage


Plants need to build their food reserve for winter and in the absence of good soil conditions and balanced fertilizer use, plants become more prone to winter damage. With low nutrients in reserve, plants get weak and they are unable to fight low light and temperatures and decay occurs.
Plants grown with organic fertilizers are stronger and more capable to fight winter challenges compared to chemically grown plants.


For best winter protection, spray Buds n Bloom 0-22-25 twice during late summer and early fall using 5 ml / litre (1 tsp) and also drench the roots with the solution.


Also apply 15-20 g of Starter Food per shrub or 100 g per sq.metre during late summer. Together the two treatments will provide needed nutrients for winter.

Hanging Baskets and Containers

Hanging Basket

Hanging baskets and other container plants can actually become weak due to excess growth. Chemical fertilizers tend to grow the plants fast and don’t carry any supplements; hence plants stretch, develop deficiencies and become weak. They transpire (releasing moisture through leaves) more due to stretching and as a result of too much stress, they get attacked by pests and grow weak. Container plants grown with organic products have sturdy growth and need less water.

Hanging Basket

Growing Medium:


For any type of container gardening, avoid using peat moss and perlite based growing medium. Best growing mix for containers and hanging baskets is 1/3 compost and 2/3 coco peat mix. This mix retains moisture 4-5 times longer and at the same time retains right amount of air in the medium. Even in extreme heat, watering requirements can be cut back many folds using this mix.


Granular fertilizers:

For every wheelbarrow load of approximately 100 litres of soil volume, add 600 g of Starter Food and 150-250 g of Humik. Preferably, mix the soil well and leave it under a cover (tarp) for at least a week before filling containers. This will get the additives activated and nutrients will start to become available on a steady basis. Two weeks from transplanting, use 10-20 g of All Purpose 4-3-9 per plant or container depending on size. This should be repeated once a month.

Liquid Fertilizers:

After transplanting you can use any of Orgunique’s organic liquid fertilizers based on plant type and apply first watering using a heavy drench with 15-20 ml of fertilizer per litre of water. Rose and Flower Food, General Purpose, BioFish, Fruit and Berry, Hanging Basket & Bloom, etc are choices based on plant selection. Apply liquid fertilizers every 3 weeks. This will keep them fresh looking and will make them bushy without overstretching. Use the same solution to spray leaves as well.

What is Humus?

  A complex black substance that is formed when organic matter decomposes.




Components of humus, these organic acids (Humic & Fulvic Acids) are naturally present in soil organic matter. They are extremely important in increasing and maintaining soil fertility.




Possessing an overall negative charge, they can attract positively charged nutrients such as K+ (Potassium). Humus can be thought of as a bank which holds nutrients and can release them in response to plant or microorganism needs. Their molecules can attract and bind with trace minerals in the soil that would otherwise be unavailable to the plant.

As plant roots grow through the soil in search of nutrients, they feed on the humus. Each plant root is surrounded by a halo of hydrogen ions that is a by-product of respiration by roots. These hydrogen ions also carry a positive electric charge. The root actually “ bargains” with the humus, exchanging some of its positively charged hydrogen ions for positively charged nutrient ions stuck onto the surface of the humus.

Humus attracts water molecules as well to then improve moisture holding capacity of garden soils. Humus is a Carbon source, being organic matter, so this becomes a source of energy for microbes in the soil. The end result is a more active, healthy soil.